Sicily has struggled to get attention in the wine market. Known mostly for its marsala – a wine often relegated to a chicken recipe – Sicily hasn’t been focused on making world-renown wines. But that has changed as new generations of winemakers are becoming involved in an effort to hold on to some traditions but introduce new methods to improve wine quality. French grape varieties, new vineyard management, sustainable farming, oak barrels, and more, have given young winemakers more opportunities to create balanced wines.
We recognized this in a recent tasting of several Sicilian wines made from indigenous grape varieties. Sponsored by the Consortium of Sicilia DOC, the tasting included grillo, frappato and nero d’avola. These wines represent some of the best values on the market.
Sicilians have been making wine on the island since 4000 BC and today it is the largest wine-growing region in Italy with 98,000 hectares under vine. It benefits from rising slopes, lots of sun, average rainfall and coastal breezes from the Mediterranean. Nearly 78 percent of the 504 wineries are managed by a family member. One of five has gone through or will go through a generational shift before 2023.
The transition to new generations is apparent at Alessandro di Camporeale where Benedetto Alessandro works with his cousins as the winery’s fourth generation. As marketing manager, he said the new generations need to learn from their predecessors but build the product with better marketing and making wines with more personality.
Celcilia Planeta of Planeta wines said that it’s easier to sell lesser -known wines than it is to change the minds of consumers who have dismissed more well-known wines because of a lack in quality.
The red frappatos we tasted were simple and vibrant, much like beaujolais. The white grillo wines, among our favorite alternatives to pinot grigio and chardonnay, are delicious and a versatile complement to seafood dishes.
Grillo has mineral, elderflower, peach and tropical fruit notes. Frapatos are savory with red fruit character and easy tannins. Another key component in these wines is their low alcohol.
Here are some interesting wines for you to try;
DiGiovanna Vurria Grillo 2020 (Vivino)
DiGiovanna Vurria Grillo 2020 ($22). The 30-year-old vineyards for this wine are up 1,600 feet. In the family for five generations, it has a lot of history. The wine has generous aromatics, a clean finish and citrus, tropical fruit and limestone notes.
