December 27, 2023
Think of this article as a “Best of Italian Wines” for 2023. I certainly did not taste every Italian wine (how could I with several thousand examples?), but I did sample several hundred from several regions in the country, so let’s call this the top Italian wines, basically the wines that impressed me the most this year in multiple categories.
Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Notàri 2020 (Colline Teramane DOCG) – Once a serviceable red meant for rich meals, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has become a serious wine of notable complexity and structure over the past two decades. One of the leading producers that has overseen this change has been Nicodemi, who makes several versions of this famous Abruzzese red, with the leading example being their Notàri. Sourced from 40-45 year-old vines and aged for one year in new and used mid-size barrels, this offers sublime varietal purity, excellent harmony and freshness along with medium-full, round tannins. This is a pleasure to enjoy now, while another eight to ten years will reward the patient drinker.
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