September 26, 2023
Why is it that Châteauneuf-du-Pape is so well known? Even non-drinkers can tell you it’s the name of a great wine. Its celebrity is built on centuries of impressive quality, but there are a number of other contributing factors: the papal seal of approval, a long history of exporting, and the fact that the name of the appellation tells its story.
The best wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape deserve this renown. But with an appellation spread over 3,200ha, inevitably there are some wines which simply aren’t that interesting, trading on a famous name rather than intrinsic quality.
Châteauneuf isn’t cheap: it’s almost impossible to buy a bottle for less than £20 today in UK retail. So if you’re on a budget, you need to step carefully. But it is still possible to find excellent wines under £40 per bottle – I even found a few under £30.
Vintage by vintage
I tasted a total of 37 Châteauneuf-du-Papes, both red and white. The red wines spanned several vintages – I started with the youngest.
2021
A difficult season after devastating frosts, the 2021s are relatively light in concentration, with more red fruits (raspberry) than black, often with herbal nuances. The wines are built around acidity as their tannic structures are discreet. The best are fragrant and approachable, in an early-drinking style.
2020
After the fresh but light 2021s, the 2020s really showed their class; they are deeper, more concentrated, riper and better balanced, with a more sturdy Châteauneuf weight and style. There are still plenty of 2020s on the market, so now is a good time to buy, with options for drinking now and for medium-term cellaring. It’s still necessary to buy with care at this end of the market, but this is an excellent vintage, and one to bear in mind when you’re buying Châteauneuf on a budget.
2019
A very hot growing season that produced a crop of powerful, ripe and satisfying Châteauneufs – as long as the alcohol levels are in check. There are still some 2019s on the market for those that enjoy a bold style, both wines for drinking now and to keep.
2018
A difficult season due to an outbreak of downy mildew. Some successful wines however, in a soft, juicy, often high-alcohol style. Typical aromatic markers are strawberry and potpourri. A vintage to drink soon rather than hold.
2017
A tannic year producing enjoyably dark, robust, textural Châteauneufs. Still youthful, and most still have a long life ahead.
Older wines
Although this tasting was limited to younger wines, a quick look at what’s available in the UK market reveals plenty of mature wines for under £40 a bottle.
As long as they’ve been well stored, mature Châteauneuf can be a source of some serious bargains. If you have a taste for older wine, I would suggest looking at the following vintages: 2012, 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006, 2005, 2001, 1999 and 1998.
Matt Walls’ pick of 26 value Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines to try:
Domaine Jean Royer, Cuvée Tradition
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône, France
