Written by: Tom Tyland | Forbes | July 19, 2023
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has always been a wine with a good degree of popularity in the marketplace. And why not? It’s got deep color (often bright purple), offers aromas and flavors such as black plum, blackberry and clove, and it’s a wine that can be enjoyed upon release – for most examples of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo made over the years, there’s been no need to cellar the wine for half a dozen years or longer; it’s consumer friendly and food friendly as well, and the pricing has almost always been reasonable. “Montepulciano is a great elegant variety,” remarks Stefano Illuminati from the family estate in Controguerra in northern Abruzzo. “The consumer loves it because it has a precise identity. There is great value for the price, and it’s one of the top sellers in the world.”
Today, many producers, ranging from large cooperatives to smaller artisan estates, continue to craft Montepulciano d’Abruzzo in this fashion. That will never change, but it’s been rewarding to see the shift in how many local vintners are now treating this wine in a different way, crafting complex versions that stand up to richer foods, and offer aging potential of more than a decade; for their efforts, they have been receiving excellent reviews in the press. It is indeed a brand new day for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Clearly, producers want consumers and influential wine critics to think of Montepulciano in a new light, as a wine that is important, while still identifying the wine as one that can offer immediate pleasure. The question then is this – what is it about the Montepulciano grape in Abruzzo that renders it to a variety of approaches? Elena Nicodemi of the family winery in Notaresco in northern Abruzzo, shares her thoughts. “Attentive and mindful row management of the Montepulciano cultivar means we can rely on a precious ally: versatility. Higher yields per hectare and shorter maceration mean the wines tend to showcase their fruit and freshness while maintaining complexity.
“At lower yields and longer macerations, the wines express greater complexity. With skilled barrel aging the wines will show not only their fruitiness but also a broad range of developed aromas like spice, liquorice, and hints of Mediterranean scrub. The wine will be long and persistent in the mouth, with mineral notes.”
While Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is produced in all four Abruzzo provinces, many of the finest examples originate from the Colline Teramane (”the hills of Teramo”) in the far northern province of Teramo. This area was designated as DOC in 1995 and elevated to DOCG status in 2005, and encompasses vineyards in the commune of Teramo, not far from the border with the Marche region, along with 30 surrounding communes. As it is a DOCG wine with tighter restrictions than a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, it must be produced from grapes with smaller yields, must have a slightly higher alcohol level, and must be aged longer at the winery prior to release. For Colline Teramane DOCG riserva, the minimum aging is 24 months, with at least nine months in barrels.
What makes the Colline Teramane area so special for the production of excellent Montepulciano d’Abruzzo? “Our Colline Teramane riserva is special for many reasons,” Nicodemi explains. “First of all the vineyards are located on hills at 300m (984 feet) above sea level. We also enjoy a unique microclimate since the Gran Sasso massif is only about 50 kilometers away and even closer is the sea at only about seven kilometers as the crow flies. The presence of the sea and the mountains makes for a mild climate ideal for the cultivation of these grapes. Summers are dry and breezy, and winters are not too harsh. The grapes are harvested in our oldest vineyard, planted over 50 years ago.
“Then, in the cellar, we ensure that maceration times give us the right level of fruitiness and freshness for a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that will pour elegance and finesse.”
Illuminati notes the characteristics of this territory. “In the hilly area of Controguerra, our area of origin, there are optimal conditions for the cultivation of the vine, the territory consists of rolling hills with vineyards located close to the Adriatic coast up to the foothills of the Gran Sasso, the highest massif of the Apennines, 2912 meters (9550 feet). Clay soil with good ventilation, excellent insolation and a strong temperature drop between day and night, which translates into important accumulation of aromatic parts in the Montepulciano grapes, and consequently in the wines.”
It is important to note that at least two producers have made ageworthy examples of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for decades: Emidio Pepe, situated in the commune of Teramo Nuovo, not far from the Marche border, and Valentini in Loreto Aprutino, farther south in the province of Pescara. Examples of these Montepulciano d’Abruzzo often drink well for two decades or more, and while newer versions of this wine from other estates may not reach those levels, it is quite satisfying that the current philosophy of the region’s producers is that they are aiming high with their wines.
Illuminati sums up what Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is all about today. “We can confirm that from the Montepulciano vine you can get both a medium-bodied wine and a wine of great structure, full-bodied, intense with a noble, velvety tannin able to face aging with great style, a style worthy only of the best Italian red wines.”
Notes on current releases of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo:
Fattoria Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Le Murate 2021 (Colline Teramane DOCG) – Sourced from vineyards that range from 20-40 years of age, this was fermented and aged in steel vats. Bright, medium deep purple; aromas of blackberry, black cherry, plum, violets and a hint of chocolate. Medium-bodied, this is straightforward and easy drinking; there is impressive harmony and freshness. Enjoy over the next 3-5 years. A fine value for less than $20. (90)
Fattoria Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Neromoro 2017 (Colline Teramane DOCG) – This is a special selection of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from a single plot, with vines older than 50 years; matured in new and second passage barriques for 16-18 months. Bright, medium-deep purple; aromas of black plum, black olive and menthol. Medium-full with excellent concentration. Notable ripeness, medium-full tannins, very well integrated wood notes, balanced acidity and very good persistence. Impressive harmony. Inviting now, but this will reveal more character over the next several years; peak in 8-10 years. (94)
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