April 27, 2023
Spring is here and summer is on the horizon, which means that crisp, refreshing wines are officially in season. We made it! From $12, 90-point Sauvignon Blanc to 93-point California bubbly, this week’s selection features white and sparkling wines from around the world. United by their liveliness, they represent a diverse range of climates, terroirs and winemaking techniques.
With its hallmark white pepper and stone fruit notes, Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white grape. Below, you’ll find a version from Winzer Krems, an Austrian cooperative of more than 800 growers, encompassing nearly 3,000 acres in the Kremstal region. Thanks to its ripe fruit and herb notes, the Kremser Wachtberg bottling is like spring in a glass, and would be tasty alongside vegetables and sharper cheeses. Winzer Krems’ Riesling is also fresh and concentrated, and could make for a delicious side-by-side tasting alongside the Grüner Veltliner.
Like Kremstal, Spain’s Rueda appellation has a continental climate; here, warm days and cooler nights are great for making complex wines from the Verdejo grape. Jorge Ordoñez & Co.’s Nisia Verdejo uses grapes from old vines with southeastern exposure; it was aged for 12 months in French oak on its lees, and shows an enticing combination of richness and minerality.
But what about bubbles? For years, Spain’s Cava was seen as a more affordable alternative to Champagne. Today, these sparklers are celebrated in their own right, and the U.S. market shows it; between 2020 and 2021, shipments of Cava into the country increased 40 percent. Yet, these impressive wines still offer fantastic value. For instance, Juvé y Camps—one of Cava’s leading producers—has made a 2018 brut nature bottling that bursts with lively acidity and flavor at just $23.
LOBSTER REEF
Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2022
Score: 90
WS review: Tropical, with guava, pineapple and mango flavors that are generous and concentrated, while vibrant acidity runs through the core. Reveals accents of lemongrass and honeycomb on the finish. Drink now. 80,000 cases made, 42,000 cases imported. From New Zealand.—M.W.
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