Written by: Christina Pickard | Wine Enthusiast
April 15, 2022
The world can’t seem to get enough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The best examples from the last two vintages, 2020 and 2021, exemplify this popular style through bright fruit, mouthwatering acidity and a slippery texture. These traits are particularly welcome after much of the under-ripeness seen in the difficult ’17 and ’18 vintages. There’s only one problem: demand has outstripped supply. In 2021, New Zealand sold more wine than it made, forcing wineries to sell off stocks of previous vintages to meet demand in the international market.
Why the shortage? The culprit is likely climate change. Marlborough is dry—too dry— and yields have been down since 2017. At the start of the 2021 vintage, Marlborough producers, entering their third year of drought, needed the weather to cooperate. It didn’t. There were frosts and freezing temperatures in the spring which affected flowering and bunch size; and there was dry, windy weather in the summer which meant small berries that were low on juice. This resulted in a 21% lower crop than in 2020, and the smallest harvest since 2015.
The good news is while supplies are more limited than in the past, the U.S. is New Zealand’s largest export market and well-priced, high-quality Sauvignon Blanc still abounds.
For the 2020s, there’s a complex yet refreshing wine from top biodynamic producer Clos Henri; a passion fruit, green tea and tarragon-led Sauvignon from Astrolabe; and a refreshingly ripe bottling from one of New Zealand’s most well-known names, Kim Crawford.
As the 2020s begin to be replaced by the ’21s, watch for harmonious wines from the likes of Scott Base; from highly consistent producer, Nautilus; and from well-known estate Giesen in the sub-$15 category.
Note: The ’21s may be full of promise, but they’re still young. Snap them up before they’re gone from shelves but leave them for six months for the best enjoyment.
Lobster Reef 2021 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough); $12. Buy on Vivino.
Zippy lime and lemon zest mingles with peach and dried herbs on this fresh, everyday-drinking Sauvignon. There’s lifted but balanced acidity with subtle textural notes and a zing of citrus on the finish. CHRISTINA PICKARD
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