The 16 Breakout Wines of 2024
Sommeliers, retailers, and importers discuss the unlikely hits of last year, from classic wines to offbeat bottles
Reflecting on 2024 in the wine industry could be a disheartening task. The industry faced plenty of challenges, from declining consumption to devastating weather events and beyond. But it can also take a different tack, reflecting on the wines that consumers truly loved in 2024—especially the surprising, sleeper hits.
For many, unexpected bestsellers emerged from bottles that broke away from the pack; traditional wine programs found success with the rogue natural wine, and programs that didn’t shy away from the funk found that classically styled wines were hits. With selections from France to the U.S., Cyprus to Argentina, this year’s breakout wines demonstrate that there’s no shortage of adventurous drinkers—and wine professionals ready to serve them.
SevenFifty Daily polled 16 wine directors, sommeliers, retailers, and importers to find out which wines were the unexpected hits of the year, and why they soared above the rest. (All wines are listed with suggested retail price per bottle.)
I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ Etna Rosso 2016, Sicily, Italy; $45
Selected by Andy Fortgang, co-owner and wine director, Canard, Le Pigeon, and Flor Wines, Portland, Oregon
At Canard, the more casual of co-owner Andy Fortgang’s French-inspired restaurants, the breakout wine of the year was, in fact, Italian. The I Custodi ‘Aetneus’ Etna Rosso is the flagship, old-vine wine founded by Mario Paoluzi and crafted by Salvo Foti, who has been key in bringing world-class winemaking back to Etna.
“When we tasted it with staff, it showed really well, and they got excited about it,” says Fortgang. It helps that the blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio remains well priced despite high demand for wines from Etna. “It also landed at a great price point and style for pairing with lots of dishes from the menu,” says Fortgang, who lists it for $60 per bottle.
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