March 23, 2023
he viticultural history of Spain goes back thousands of years. Today, Spain remains one of the world’s largest wine-producing nations, abounding with diverse regions and styles, some of which have only recently begun finding traction on the U.S. market. That is, of course, in addition to Spain’s best-known wines, which continue to attract the attention of investors around the world. The diversity of Spain’s wine is on display in this week’s selection of bottlings from across the country, all rated 90 points or higher.
Though likely not as well-known as the country’s reds, sparkling wine is one of Spain’s specialties. While there are inexpensive, large-volume bubblies made here, Spain also produces many serious and delicious versions that offer great value, especially when compared to other wines in the category. This includes two stellar bruts featured here, from Gramona and Bodegas Muga. Alternatively, the Basque region’s Txakoli wines are bottled with slight effervescence that can lighten and energize the palate. Look to standout versions like Etxaniz Txakolina’s juicy 2022, which has a minerally, herbal edge that would make it delicious alongside food.
Then there are Spain’s celebrated Tempranillo (aka Tinto Fino) reds from the Rioja and Ribera del Duero regions, wines sought after by collectors for their great value and ageability. Many of these reds are also ready to enjoy upon release, like the 2016 gran reserva from Rioja’s Bodegas Ramírez and the 2018 reserva from Ribera del Duero’s Bodegas Real Sitio de Ventosilla.
Farther east in Catalonia, winemaking in the Priorat region dates back more than 800 years; more recently, the region’s wines have come back into the spotlight following renewed investment and interest that began in the 1980s. Priorat’s diverse terrain allows vintners to make a wide range of styles from grapes such as Garnacha and Carignan, as well as a few other international varieties. Two more regions offering exceptional, fuller-bodied reds are Campo de Borja—an area south of Rioja that specializes in Garnacha—and the hot southeastern region Jumilla, which produces lively, expressive reds like Bodegas Ego’s Monastrell-based Goru Verde.
Score: 92
BODEGAS RAMÍREZ
Rioja Ramírez de la Piscina Gran Reserva 2016
WS review: Dark but fresh, with graphite and milled pepper notes winding through fruit flavors of black plum reduction, blackberry and black currant underscored by a streak of tar and mineral. The rich, herb- and spice-laced profile of this medium- to full-bodied red is finely meshed with lightly chalky tannins. Drink now through 2030. 750 cases made, 450 cases imported.—A.N.
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