93Points

“Michael Keenan farms a large block of chardonnay adjacent to his winery on Spring Mountain, the vines planted in 1995, close enough to underground springs that they provide an abundant crop without irrigation. His 2018 is intriguing and layered, a complex mountain-grown chardonnay with an earthy tannic briskness to sustain it. The flavors range from lime to yellow apple and green plum, firm enough to absorb the oak in which it aged, and to last, with the cool pallor of a morning-sun wine.”