92Points

“The Grand Cras lieu-dit is one notoriously hard to understand, with Jean-Marc saying it took him 10 years to figure out the best way to vinify the wine; but on the evidence of this 2022, it seems he has figured it out. The 2022 Morgon Grands Cras offers notes of currants, licorice, cracked white pepper and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, the wine shows strong delineation, with a sharp attack, fine-grained tannins and tinges of bitterness. It has remarkable depth, characterized by savory notes of brine and dried sage, further ringed with a wet-stone salinity that takes over the palate on the finish. The wine possesses a rustic nature typical of the terroir, lending it the charm of authenticity.”